For those of you who are new to wet shaving, we've compiled a list of common terms and their meanings.
The blade gap space determines how aggressive or close a razor will shave. A larger blade gap allows closer contact between the cutting edge of the razor blade and the beard hairs and skin.
The blade exposure is the amount of the blade's cutting edge that is exposed beyond the shave plane. A positive blade exposure means the blade sticks out past the shave plane. When shaving with a positive blade exposure, you should not have to apply any pressure during shaving. Positive blade exposure provides more of an aggressive shave. Negative blade exposure means the blade does not extend past the shave plane. Some pressure might be needed during shaving in order for the blade to come in contact with the skin. Neutral blade exposure is when the blade meets the shave plane. Negative and neutral blade exposure both provide a milder shave.
A razor with a protective device positioned between the edge of the blade and the skin. Different from cartridge razors, safety razors are designed out of sustainable materials meant to be reused instead of replaced. In a safety razor, the blade is the only part needing to be replaced over time. A safety razor typically has either a single edge (SE) or double edge (DE) used to shave.
Shaving your face while it is wet with plenty of hot water and using shaving brushes and different soaps and creams to keep their face properly protected for safety razor shaving. This method produces an extremely close shave with the benefits of less irritation. The tools needed are simple: a safety razor, shaving soap or cream, a shaving brush and of course, water. Known as the most traditional shaving method.
A shaving brush is required for creating a lather from shaving soap. Brushes are commonly made out of either badger hair or synthetic fibers. They are used to whip up a thick, protective lather for your shave. Some benefits of using a brush includes prepping your face by exfoliation, helping facial hair stand up so it’s easier to get and close shave and helping hydrate your skin along the way.
The main difference between a shave soap and a cream is the thickness. A shave soap can come in two forms: a puck ( you will need a shaving mug) or pour ( can be used with a mug, lather bowl, or in its original container). The thickness of a shaving soap requires a brush and water to create your thick, creamy lather and tend to last much longer than creams.
A foamy, protective thick layer created by whipping up shaving soap with water. A rich lather is essential to protecting your skin as you shave with extremely sharp and efficient razor blades. A shaving brush is usually required to create a lather using either a shaving bowl or directly to your beard.
The term post shave refers to any creams, gels or sprays used after your shave. Their purpose is to moisturize, cool, and heal your skin.
Shaving Bowls and mugs are used to help create lather and store it through the duration of your shave. Scuttles hold the lather in the top bowl, while storing hot water in the bottom. This heats the lather and makes for a wonderfully warm shave.
Beard grain, Multi-pass shave, WTG, ATG, XTG, and BBS
Beard grain is the direction of the hair growth in your beard. Your beard grain serves as the perfect guide during you shave. Many wet shavers use a multi-pass system to ensure a BBS (baby butt smooth) shave. By shaving WTG (with the grain), ATG (against the grain), and XTG (across the grain), it makes for an extra smooth shave.
Our aluminum razors weigh far less than the stainless steel. This makes the razor more forgiving and is ideal for those moving from a cartridge. If this is your first safety razor, or you just prefer a lighter razor, then aluminum may be the right choice for you.
Our stainless razors are designed to let the weight of the razor do the work. The heft of these razors, paired with the correct base plate, will make short work of any hair. If this is your first stainless steel safety razor, start slow, take your time, and let the weight of the razor do the work for you.
The slant style safety razor torques the blade in such a way that the cutting edge is held at an angle. It is this slant that creates the slicing motion on the hair, reducing pull, making your shave feel smoother. The cap edge & safety bar / open comb should all be parallel to the blade edge. The blade gap should remain the same across the cutting side of the razor.
I think its safe to say most safety razors on the market are double edge. There are tons of blades to try and they are cheap. The 2 cutting surfaces give you more sharpness on average per stroke and can double the time between rinses, as opposed to the single edge.
The single edge razors use Artist Club style razor blades. These blades are wider and typically thicker than your average double edge blade. This thickness reduces blade vibration for a smoother feeling shave. Single edge blades are typically more expensive and come in an injector with blade bank. They also allow you to dial in your shave with your blade selection. Start with the Schick Proline Blades, they are amazing.